June 24, 2026

199. Marfa, Texas - Desert minimalism, starlit nights, mysterious lights

Show Notes
Transcript

Some episodes use AI for research, writing assistance, and occasional voiceover when Johnny Mac is unavailable. His point of view, and his insistence on finding the best local taco remains entirely human.

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Hey, we made it to Marfa, Texas. Picture this. You're

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driving through the vast expanses of West Texas and just

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when you think there's nothing else out there, you stumble

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upon this small town with a big reputation. Marfa is

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one of those places that's become a bit of a

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legend on the travel circuit. It's got art, it's got history,

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and it's got this vibe that you just can't quite

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put your finger on. You're definitely gonna want to soak

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it all in. Uh So, what do you actually do

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when you're in Marfa. First off, if you get in

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and it's late afternoon or early evening, do yourself a

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favor and head over to the Marfa Lights viewing Area.

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The Marpha Lights are one of those mysterious phenomena you

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hear about, strange lights that appear on the horizon just

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outside of town. Nobody really knows what they are. Some

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say they're ghosts, others say it's just some atmospheric anomaly

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or headlights from a distant highway. Whatever they are, there's

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a nice viewing area set up off Highway ninety and

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it's a fun, slightly spooky way to start your trip.

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After you've pondered the mysteries of the Marpha Lights, you'll

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need a place to rest your head. Hotels in Marfa

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are as much about the experience as they are about

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a place to sleep. The most iconic place to stay

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has to be the elcos Go. This isn't your typical hotel.

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It's a campground of colorful vintage trailers, tents, and tepees.

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It's kind of like glamping with a cool, artsy twist.

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You'll find a communal vibe here and it's perfect if

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you want to meet fellow travelers. You can sit around

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a campfire and swap stories under the Starlit Texas sky.

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If you're more into traditional accommodations, Hotel Paisano might be

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your spot. This historic hotel was where James Dean, Elizabeth Taylor,

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and Rock Hudson stayed while filming the movie Giant back

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in the nineteen fifties. Walking through the lobby, you might

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feel like you've stepped back in time, and it's a

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great way to connect with Marfa's Hollywood connection. Now, let's

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talk food, because after all that traveling, you're going to

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be hungry. Marfa may be small, but there's no shortage

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of good eats. Start your day with breakfast at Buns

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and Roses. It's a quirky little spot that serves up

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a solid breakfast and has a nursery in the back.

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Not your usual combo, but it's Marfa after all. Their

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breakfast burritos are fantastic and nothing gets you going like

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a good cup of coffee, which they do quite well.

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When lunchtime rolls around, head over to Food. It's a

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Mediterranean food truck that's been serving up deliciousness from an

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old bus in a dusty lot. Grab a Marfa Laffel,

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their take on a classic falaffel, and eat it under

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the shade of a few trees. It's simple, tasty, and

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about as Marfa as it gets. You can't visit Marfa

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without checking out Chinady Foundation, which is pretty much the

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reason Marfa is on the map for art lovers. This

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contemporary art museum was founded by the artist Donald Judd

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in the nineteen seventies and it's spread out over three

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hundred and forty acres of land. You'll want to give

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yourself plenty of time to wander through the massive concrete

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installations and explore the indoor galleries. It's an experience that

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makes you think about space and light in a new way.

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Even if you're not a big art person, it's worth

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a visit for the sheer scale of it all. After

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soaking up some art, take a stroll around Marfa itself.

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The town is small, so you can cover a lot

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of ground on foot. Check out the various galleries and

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shops dotted around. There's the Ballroom Marfa, another key player

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in the local art scene, which hosts exhibitions and performances.

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It's a cool spot to pop in and see what's on.

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If you're a book lover, you have to visit Marfa

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Book Company. It's a bookstore, art gallery, and community space

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all rolled into one. You'll find a well curated selection

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of books, and it's a great place to pick up

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something by a local author or artist. For a bit

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of history, stop by the Presidio County Courthouse. It's a

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beautiful old building with a dome you can climb up

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to for a panoramic view of the town and the

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surrounding desert. The courthouse itself is a bit of a landmark,

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and even if you're not into architectural history, the view

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from the top is worth the visit. Dinner in Marfa

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can be quite the experience. Coach and Eiel is one

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of those places you've got to try. It's upscale, yes,

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but not in a pretentious way. The menu change is

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regularly focusing on what's fresh and locally available. It's a

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great place to treat yourself, especially if you've been on

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the road for a while. If you're looking for something

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more casual, Jet's Grill at the Hotel Paisano is a

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good option. It's got a nice courtyard and the vibe

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is relaxed. The green chili cheeseburger is a favorite and

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you can't go wrong with it as the sun sets.

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Embrace the nightlife Marfa style. It's not about hitting busy nightclubs.

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Marfa is more laid back. You might find yourself at

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Lost Horse Saloon and Offuthentic Texas Bar with live music

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and local beers. There's a pool table if you're up

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for game, and it's a great spot to chat with

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locals or other travelers. Now, if you're wondering what else

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you can do, think about taking a short drive to

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Prada Marfa. It's technically in Valentine, but it's only about

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thirty five minutes away. This art installation is a faux

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protes storefront in the middle of the desert. It's one

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of those must see quirky things that makes for a

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great photo op. It's kind of surreal standing there contemplating

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high fashion in the vast emptiness of the desert. On

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a more adventurous note, if you have some time and energy,

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consider a visit to Big Ben National Park. It's a

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bit of a drive from Marfa, around two to three hours,

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but if you're a nature lover, it's worth it. The

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park is absolutely stunning, with canyons, rivers, and desert landscapes

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that look like they're straight out of a movie. Hiking,

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bird watching, and just soaking up the natural beauty are

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some of the things you can do here. Kutot back

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in Marfa. If you're still in the mood for art,

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pop into the galleries you missed earlier or check out

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the local events. Marfa has a pretty active community calendar

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with film screenings, lectures, and other artsy happenings. The town

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has a way of surprising you with its cultural richness

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despite its size. Marfa is also a great place to

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just slow down and unwind. Sometimes the best plan here

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is to have no plan at all, find a spot

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to sit, maybe with a coffee or drink, and just

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people watch or enjoy the silence of the desert. The

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pace of life here is slower, and you'll find that

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it's easy to relax and let go of the usual hurry.

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So there you have it, a taste of what Marfa,

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Texas has to offer. It's a place that defies expectation

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and maybe that's its magic. Whether you're here for the art,

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the food, the landscapes, or just to see what all

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the fuss is about, Marfa's got something to show you.

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And if you're looking to dive deeper into the local scene,

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don't miss out on some of the smaller, off the

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beaten path treasures. Take a leisurely stroll down Highland Avenue,

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the main drag of Marfa, where you can discover a

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mix of old town charm and modern creativity. Pop into

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some of the antique shops where you might find a

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quirky souvenir or two that truly captures the essence of

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this unique spot. For a truly local experience, drop by

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the Marfa Burrito. This place is about as no frills

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as it gets, and that's exactly why you'll love it.

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Run out of a modest house. There's no menu because

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they keep it simple and delicious. Grab a burrito stuffed

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with eggs, beans, and cheese and sit outside to enjoy

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it in the morning sun. It's a great way to

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chat up locals and get some insider tips on what

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else to see and do. Once you've had your fill

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of burritos, take a short walk to the Marfa and

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Presidio County Museum. Though small, this museum is packed with

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local history, from the town's founding days to its contemporary

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art fame. It's a nice way to get a sense

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of the area's past and understand how Marfa became the

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quirky desert oasis it is today. If you're up for

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a little more of the great outdoors, you can check

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out the Davis Mountain State Park. It's about an hour's

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drive away, but the views are definitely worth the trip.

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The drive there is scenic, with stretches of open road

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that make for a perfect backdrop for some travel tunes.

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Once you arrive, you'll find hiking trails that offer spectacular

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vistas of the Texas landscape. It's a spot where you

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can really appreciate the raw beauty of this part of

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the world. Back in town, as the afternoon sun long shadows,

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you might want to head over to Stealina. This cozy

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spot offers an excellent menu that combines Italian influences with

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local ingredients. Their handmade pasa dishes are fantastic, and they've

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got some great wine pairings to boot. It's a perfect

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place for a leisurely lunch or an early dinner. As

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evening approaches, consider catching a movie at the local theater.

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The Marfa Film Festival is a big deal around these parts,

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and you might just catch a screening of something special

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even if it's not festival time. The theater often shows

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indie films that you won't easily find elsewhere. To wrap

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up your evening, find a spot at Planet Marfa, a

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beer garden that's as eclectic as the town itself. Enjoy

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some live music, or just relax with a cold drink

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under the twinkling lights. It's a fitting place to end

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a day of exploring, laid back and welcoming, just like Marfa.

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Whether you've come to Marfa for the art, the cuisine,

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the history, or just the sheer curiosity of it all.

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You'll find that this little town in the Texas Desert

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is more than meets the eye. It's a place that

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invites you to pause, reflect, and maybe see the world

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a little differently. I'm Johnny Mack and Travels Back. Follow

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Travelers Back wherever you listen to podcasts, and find all

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199. Marfa, Texas - Desert minimalism, starlit nights, mysterious lights

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