June 1, 2025

170. Glacier National Park - Crown of the Continent

Show Notes
Transcript

Journey with Johnny Mac to the dramatic peaks and pristine wilderness of Glacier National Park, where ancient glaciers carved a landscape so spectacular it's called the "Crown of the Continent." Experience the engineering marvel of Going-to-the-Sun Road as it climbs through diverse ecosystems to Logan Pass, discover the best wildlife viewing opportunities in areas like Many Glacier and Two Medicine, and learn which hiking trails offer the most rewarding encounters with mountain goats, grizzly bears, and alpine meadows filled with wildflowers. From the accessible Hidden Lake Overlook to the challenging trek to Grinnell Glacier, Johnny reveals how to safely explore one of America's most intact ecosystems. Understand the sobering reality of climate change as told through disappearing glaciers, experience the historic lodges that define mountain hospitality, and discover why this remote corner of Montana represents wilderness at its most magnificent and fragile. For a commercial free experience please visit www.caloroga.com/plus

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Calaruga Shark Media.

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There's something humbling about standing before an ancient glacier, watching

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ice that fell as snow when your great grandparents were children.

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Glacier National Park holds twenty six named glaciers today, remnants

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of the ice age that carved this magnificent landscape of

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jagged peaks, pristine lakes, and alpine meadows. This rugged wilderness

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along the Canadian border represents one of the most intact

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ecosystems in the lower forty eight States, where grizzly bears

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still roam and mountain goats traverse impossible cliffs with casual grace.

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Welcome back to travelers back. I'm Johnny Mack.

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And today we're continuing our journey through America's national parks

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with Glacier in northwestern Montana. We've explored the Everglades, River

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of Grass, Death Valleys, Extremes, and Bryce Canyons.

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Who Dos.

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Now we're heading to a place locals call the crown

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of the Continent, a landscape shaped by ice and time

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into something approaching perfection. The fifty mile Going to the

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Sun Road represents one of America's greatest engineering achievements and

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mostpec t tacular Mountain Drives. Completed in nineteen thirty two,

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this narrow, winding road crosses the Continental Divide at Logan Pass,

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connecting the park's west and east entrances through its dramatic heart.

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The road typically opens fully by early July, though snow

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can close sections as late as June and as early

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as October.

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During the shoulder seasons.

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Portions remain accessible by foot or bicycle, offering a different

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perspective on the famous route without vehicular traffic. From the

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west entrance, the road follows Lake MacDonald for ten miles,

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providing gentle introduction to the park's grandeur. The Trail of

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the Cedars offers an accessible walk through old growth forest

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on an elevated boardwalk, perfect for families or though seeking

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a less strenuous experience. As the road climbs toward Logan Pass,

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it becomes increasingly dramatic, with stone walls dropping away to

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reveal valleys carved by ancient glaciers. The Weeping Wall, where

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water cascades directly onto the road, and bird Woman falls

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visible across the valley mark notable landmarks on the ascent.

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At Logan Pass, the road reaches its six thousand, six

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hundred forty six foot sum with visitor center facilities and

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access to some of the park's most popular trails. The

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pass often remains snowbound until like late June, creating dramatic

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contrast between snow covered peaks and wildflower filled meadows. Descending

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the east side, the road offers different but equally spectacular views,

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with the prairies of Eastern Montana visible in the distance.

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Many consider the eastern approach more dramatic, as the mountains

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rise suddenly from the plains rather than gradually transitioning from foothills.

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Lake MacDonald, the park's largest lake, at ten miles long

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and one and a half miles wide, offers a gentler

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introduction to Glacier's wonders. Formed by a glacier in the

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last Ice Age, this pristine lake reaches maximum depth of

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four hundred and seventy two feet and rarely freezes due

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to its size and depth, The historic Lake McDonald Lodge,

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built in nineteen fourteen, provides the area's focal point with

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its rustic architecture and lakeside setting. The lodge's lobby features

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massive timber construction and Native American inspired decorps, exemplifying the

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parchitecture style developed for National Park Service buildings. Several easy

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trails originate from the Lake McDonald area. The Trail of

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the Cedars features an accessible boardwalk through ancient Western red

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cedar and hemlock forest, while the slightly longer Avalanche Lake

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Trail leads to a stunning mountain lake surrounded by waterfalls

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and towering peaks. The lake itself offers excellent opportunities for boating,

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with rentals available at apgar. Fishing for lake trout and

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mountain whitefish provides a peaceful way to experience the pristine waters,

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though regulations require checking with rangers for current rules and

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licenses during summer evenings. The lake's calm waters perfectly reflect

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the surrounding mountains, creating one of the park's most photographed scenes.

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The Red Buses, historic vehicles restored for touring, often stop

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at lakeside viewpoints, their bright colors providing foreground interest for photographers.

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Logan Pass serves as the literal and figurative high point

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of most glacier visits. At six thousan six hundred and

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forty six feet elevation, the pass provides access to high

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alpine environments in some of the park's most dramatic scenery

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accessible to average hikers. The Hidden Lake Overlook Trail begins

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directly from the Logan Pass visitor Center, climbing one and

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a half miles through subalpine meadows to a stunning overlook

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of Hidden Lake. During peak wildflower season in late July

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and early August, the meadows explode with Indian paintbrush, bear grass,

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and dozens of other alpine species. Mountain goats frequently appear

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near Logan Pass, often within sight of the parking areas.

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These sure footed animals show little fear of humans, but

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maintain appropriate distance. Early morning and evening offer the best

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opportunities for wildlife viewing as animals emerge from sheltered areas

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to feed. The Continental Divide runs directly through Logan Pass,

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marking the point where water flows toward either the Pacific

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or Atlantic Oceans. This geographic significance adds meaning to the

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already spectacular scenery, reminding visitors of the landscape's role in

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North America's water systems. Whether at Logan Pass can change rapidly,

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with summer snowstorms possible. Even in July and August, afternoon

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thunderstorms are common, making early morning visits advisable for both

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weather and crowd avoidance. The visitor center provides current trail

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conditions and weather updates. The hike to Grinell Glacier offers

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one of the best opportunities to see an active glacier

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without technical climbing skills. This five and a half mile

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round trip hike combines boat rides, moderate hiking, and spectacular scenery,

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and a full day adventure accessible to most visitors. The

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journey begins with a boat ride across swift Current Lake

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and Lake Josephine, operated by Concession Air boats that run

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regularly during the summer season. These beautiful lakes carved by

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glacial action, provide stunning reflections of surrounding peaks while eliminating

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the need to hike the flat portions along their shores.

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From the upper boat dock, the trail climbs two miles

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through diverse terrain, including waterfalls, hanging gardens, and alpine tarns.

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The path offers increasingly dramatic views of the Salamander and

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Gem glaciers, clinging to the surrounding peaks. At the trail's end,

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visitors find themselves before Grenell Glacier itself, dramatically situated in

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a cirque surrounded by peaks nearly eight thousand feet tall.

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The glacier's terminus lake displays a brilliant turquoise color created

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by glacial flour. Finely ground rock particles suspended in the water.

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Signs mark the glacier's positions in previous decades, dramatically illustrating

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the effects of climate change. Like all glaciers in the park,

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Grenelle Glacier has retreated significantly in recent decades, making current

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opportunities to observe it even more precious. We'll be right

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back with more from Glacier National Park, including the best

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trails and where to spot wildlife. But first, a quick

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word about supporting independent podcasting through Calaroga Shark Media. For

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just a few dollars a month, you can enjoy Travelers

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Back and our entire network of twenty plus shows completely

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ad free. No more waiting through commercials, just pure uninterrupted

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content Whenever you're ready to listen. Visit Kalaroga dot com

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slash plus to get started, or if you're an Apple

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podcast user, simply hit the banner in your app. The

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Many Glacier area accessed from the town of bab Montana

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offers some of the park's most dramatic scenery and challenging

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hiking opportunities. Often called America's Alps for its concentration of

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towering peaks and glacial valleys, this area provides access to

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pristine wilderness with relatively modest hiking efforts. The historic Many

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Glacier Hotel, built in nineteen fifteen, anchors the area with

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its Swiss chalet architectural style and stunning lakeside location. Even

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if not staying at the hotel, visitors can explore its

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lobby and enjoy meals while soaking in views across swift

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Current Lake towards Mount Gould and other dramatic peaks. Several

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excellent day hikes begin from the Many Glacier area. The

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Iceberg Lake Trail leads four and a half miles to

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a lake that often contains icebergs well into summer, a

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testament to the area's alpine environment. The trail passes through

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diverse habitats from lakeside forests to high alpine zones. Cracker

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Lake offers anuther other moderate hike through meadows and along

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streams to a distinctive turquoise lake colored by glacial silt.

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The six mile round trip provides excellent opportunities for wildlife viewing,

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with possible sightings of mountain goats, big horn sheep, and

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occasional black bears or grizzlies. The Many Glacier area also

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serves as the starting point for some of the park's

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most challenging adventures, including the climb to Mount Gould or

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the technical route to the summit of Mount Grinnell. These

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advanced routes require mountaineering skills and proper equipment. Glacier National

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Park protects one of the most intact ecosystems in the

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lower forty eight States, supporting populations of both grizzly and

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black bears, mountain lions, wolves, and numerous smaller mammals. Wildlife

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viewing opportunities exist throughout the park, though success requires patience, timing,

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and sometimes luck. Early morning and evening provide the best

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opportunities for wildlife sightings as animals emerge from cover to

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feed during cooler parts of the day. The roadside meadows

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along going to the Sun Road often host black bears,

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particularly in late summer when berries ripen. Mountain goats represent

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one of the the park's most visible large mammals often

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spotted near Logan Pass and other high elevation areas. These

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surefooted climbers appear almost casual as they navigate seemingly impossible

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cliff faces, providing spectacular viewing for patient observers. Bighorn sheep

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prefer the park's eastern areas, where open slopes and rocky

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terrain provide ideal habitat the Areas around Saint Mary and

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two Medicine frequently host sheep populations, particularly during winter months

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when they descend to lower elevations. Moose inhabit the park's

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wetland areas, with the North Fork Road and certain areas

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around lakes providing the best viewing opportunities. These massive animals

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can be unpredictable, requiring visitors to maintain safe distances even

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when they appear dasol.

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BirdLife includes over two.

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Hundred and sixty species, ranging from tiny hummingbirds to massive

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golden eagles. Ptarmigan inhabit the alpine zones, while ospray and

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bald eagles nest near lakes and rivers. The varied elevations

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and habitats create niches for everything from waterbirds to four specialists.

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The two Medicine area, While less visited than going to

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the Sun Road or Many Glacier, offers spectac s acular

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scenery with smaller crowds. The southeastern section of the park

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provides access to pristine wilderness in some of the most

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dramatic peaks in the entire park system. Two Medicine Lake

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serves as the focal point, with boat tours available to

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the lake's far end, reducing hiking distances to several destinations.

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The lake's mountain reflections, particularly in early morning calm conditions,

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creates some of the park's most photographed scenes. Several excellent

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day hikes begin from the Two Medicine area. Running Eagle Falls,

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also known as Trick Falls, presents a unique attraction where

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water flows over the cliff face during high water, but

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through a hole in the rock during lower flows. The

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short walk to the falls passes through diverse plant communities.

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The hike to Dawson Pass provides access to high alpine

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terrain with panoramic views of the park's southern regions. This

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challenging seven mile round trip climbs through diverse zones from

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lakeside forest to windswept alpine meadows. For those seeking solitude,

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The two Medicine area offers excellent backcountry opportunities, with less

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crowded trails leading to pristine alpine lakes and remote campgrounds.

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The area's relative isolation from major park thoroughfares makes it

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ideal for visitors seeking a more wilderness like experience. Accommodation

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options in and around Glacier National Park range from historic

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lodges to primitive campgrounds, each offering different perspectives on the

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park experience. Reservations are essential due to limited options and

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high demand during the short summer season. Within the park,

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Several historic lodges provide immersive experiences with direct access to

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hiking trails and spectacular views. Lake McDonald Lodge and Many

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Glacier Hotel offer the most extensive facilities, while Rising Sun

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Motor Inn provides more modest accommodations with stunning sunrise views.

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Camping within the park includes both developed campgrounds and backcountry sites.

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Apgar and Fish Creek Campgrounds on the west side and

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Saint Mary Campground on the east provide facilities including restrooms, water,

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and some electrical hookups. These campgrounds operate on reservation systems

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during peak season. Backcountry camping requires permits and careful planning,

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but provides access to the park's most pristine areas. Designated

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sites range from lakeside locatedtions to high alpine meadows, all

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requiring varying degrees of hiking to reach outside the park.

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Gateway communities provide additional lodging options. Whitefish and callis Bell

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on the west side offer full services, including restaurants, shopping,

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and equipment rental. The town of Saint Mary on the

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east side provides closer access to park facilities but fewer amenities.

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During peak season from July through early September, all accommodations

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book months in advance. The shoulder seasons of June and

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late September often provide better availability, but may include weather

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related limitations on road access and trail conditions. As dawn

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light touches the peak surrounding Lake MacDonald, the entire landscape

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seems to hold its breath, the still water reflecting mountains

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so perfectly that you can't tell where reality ends and

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reflection begins. In these moments, Glacier National Park reveals why

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indigenous peoples called this area sacred, why early explorers struggled

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to capture its grandeur in words, and why modern visitors

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often find themselves planning return trips before their first visit ends.

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The Crown of the Continent offers something increasingly rare, a

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chance to experience wilderness at the scale it once covered

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much of North America. Here, natural processes still govern the landscape,

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while human presence remains largely invisible, creating the illusion of

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stepping back in time to a wilder world. Next time,

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we'll continue our alphabetical journey through America's national parks. Until then,

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I'm Johnny Mack, encouraging you to witness these ancient stories

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written in stone and ice while they remain for us

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to read.

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Safe Travels,

170. Glacier National Park - Crown of the Continent

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