April 20, 2025
164. Argentina - Ushuaia & Tierra del Fuego - At the End of the World, Antarctica Begins
Travel to the southernmost city on Earth with Johnny Mac as he visits Ushuaia, Argentina's gateway to Antarctica. Experience Christmas at the edge of civilization at the Ushuaia Brewing Company, ride the historic "End of the World Train," and discover...
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RSS Feed Travel to the southernmost city on Earth with Johnny Mac as he visits Ushuaia, Argentina's gateway to Antarctica. Experience Christmas at the edge of civilization at the Ushuaia Brewing Company, ride the historic "End of the World Train," and discover the pristine wilderness of Tierra del Fuego National Park where the Pan-American Highway finally reaches its conclusion. This remote outpost, reminiscent of Ketchikan, Alaska, offers breathtaking landscapes, unique wildlife encounters, and the magical golden light of Patagonia. Join us for this penultimate stop before our journey continues to the frozen continent beyond (those episodes coming later this year).
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Callaroga Shark Media.
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Next week we'll get back to doing stateside road trips,
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which really is the premise of this show. But I
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wound up doing a lot of international travel this winter.
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One place I went to was Antarctica. Really, I'm working
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on producing a whole separate series about that amazing trip.
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To get to Antarctica, I had to get on a
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boat in Ushuaia, at the southern tip of Argentina. I
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flew into Buenos Aires, then switched airports to catch a
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four hour flight to the beautiful town of Ushuaia. There's
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something about places at the edges of the world that
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draws us in these final outposts of civilization before wilderness
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takes over completely. Uya has that feeling in spades. It's
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a place that exists in defiance of its surroundings, clinging
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to mountains that rise straight from the Beagle Channel, with
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the knowledge that beyond that water lies only the Drake
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Passage and then Antarctica itself. It's a town that knows
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exactly what it is the end of the road, the
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southernmost city on Earth, where the Andes finally surrendered to
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the sea. Getting to Ushuaia is part of the adventure
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from Buenos Aires, I had to change airports from Aziza
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International to Jorge Newbery Airpark, which is their domestic airport.
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Pro travel tip give yourself at least three hours for
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this transfer. Buenos Aires traffic can be unpredictable and the
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two airports are on opposite sides of the city. Flight
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itself is about four hours, taking you over at Patagonia's
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vast empty landscapes. It's one of those flights where you
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don't want to nap because the scenery below is two incredible,
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endless planes giving way to the jagged peaks of the
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southern Andes and finally glimpses of the channels and islands
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of Tierra del Fuego. Landing in Ushuaya, you immediately feel
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the change in climate. Even though I visited in December,
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their summer. The air had a crispness to it that
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reminded me of early fall in Chicago, which we explored
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back in episode one. The airport is small but modern,
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and as soon as you step outside, you're hit with
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that view mountains on three sides and the gleaming waters
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of the Beagle Channel on the fourth. Ushuaia itself is
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a fascinating mix. It's a tourist town. Certainly, you can't
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be the gateway to Antarctica and the self proclaimed Findel
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Mundo end of the world without attracting travelers. But it's
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also a real working city with a complex history. Founded
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as a penal colony in the late nineteenth Centuryaya was
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Argentina's alcatraz, a place where the worst criminals and political
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prisoners were sent because escape was virtually impossible. The old
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prison still stands and has been converted to a museum
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that's well worth visiting. Walking through the cold, narrow quarriters
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really drives home what isolation meant in an era before
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modern transportation. The city stretches up from the waterfront and tiers,
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with colorful buildings climbing the hillsides. One of the things
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that struck me immediately was the architecture. It's distinctly alpine,
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with lots of wood and pitched roofs designed to shed
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the heavy snows of winter. In fact, the whole place
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reminded me strongly of Ketchikan, Alaska, which has that same
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frontier feeling where the mountains meet the sea in a
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similar way. The main drag is San Martin Avenue, which
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runs parallel to the water and is lined with restaurants,
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outdoor equipment shops. There's a lot of north face in
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Patagonia year for sale, souvenir stores and chocolate shops, yes,
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chocolate shops. Like many Alpine influenced towns, Ushuaya has embraced
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chocolate making as a local specialty. Despite the tourist trappings,
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there is an authenticity to Ushuaya that I found refreshing.
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Perhaps it's because even at the height of tourist season,
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you're still aware that you're at the edge of something
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vast and untamed. Every view down a side street offers
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a glimpse of either the channel or the mountains, a
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constant reminder of your place on the map. I happen
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to be in Ashuaya over Christmas, which added another layer
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to the experience. Christmas in the Southern Hemisphere always feels
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a little surreal to a Northerner like me. The decorations
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are familiar, but seeing them in near twenty four hour
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daylight take some getting used to. In December, the sun
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doesn't set until after ten pm, and even then it's
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not fully dark for long. One place that became my
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holiday home away from home was the Ushuaya Brewing Company.
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I had dinner there on Christmas Eve and then returned
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for lunch on Christmas Day because I was so impressed
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with the food, the beer, and the atmosphere. The brewery
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sits in a large wooden building overlooking the Beagle Channel,
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with huge windows that make the most of the view. Inside,
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it's all warm wood, copper brewing vats visible behind glass,
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and the comforting smell of malts and hops in the air.
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On Christmas Eve, the place was packed with a mix
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of locals, Antarctic Expedition staff on their night off, and
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travelers like me. I settled into a corner table with
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a flight of their beers. They do several styles, but
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their signature is a red ale called Beagle that has
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a beautiful multi backbone with just enough hop character to
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balance it. Unlike our beer scene in Nashville, which we
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talked about in episode two, where IPAs dominate everything, Ushuaia
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Brewing Company seems to understand that a good beer doesn't
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have to salt your palate. I ordered their lamb, which
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is sourced from Patagonian farms and slow roasted with herbs.
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It arrived fall off the bone tender, with a side
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of roasted potatoes and chimturi. The meat had that distinct
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flavor that comes from animals raised on wild grasses, a
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little gamier and more complex than what we typically get
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in the States. I returned for lunch on Christmas Day
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to find the place even more buzzing. This time I
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tried their take out on the classic Argentine perilla, a
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mixed grill with rizo blood, sausage, steak, and sweetbreads. It's
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not a meal for the faint of heart or for
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those watching their cholesterol, but when in Rome or at
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the end of the world, you know. What struck me
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about Ushuya Brewing Company wasn't just the quality of the
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food and beer, but how it served as a crossroads.
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While Ushuaia itself has enough to keep you occupied for
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a few days, the real magic lies in the landscape
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surrounding it. The town is nestled in a bay on
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the northern shore the Beagle Channel, with Chili literally just
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around the corner. The channel itself is magnificent, a stretch
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of protected water flowing between the islands of Tierra del
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Fuego with snow capped mountains rising on both sides. One
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thing you can do is take a catamaran tour of
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the channel. You will sail past Les Eclarur Lighthouse often
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mistakenly called the Lighthouse at the End of the World,
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though jule Verne's famous lighthouse was actually elsewhere, and then
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onto some small islands that are home to colonies of
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sea lions and cormorants. The sea lions do what sea
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lions do best, lounging dramatically on rocks, occasionally barking at
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each other over prime sunbathing spots. They have this wonderful
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nonchalance about them, barely acknowledging your boat. On Bird Island,
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Imperial cormorants nest in the hundreds. These sleek, black and
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white birds create quite the spectacle when they all take
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flight at once, their wings churning the air above the island.
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The real highlight, though, is a small rocky outcrop populated
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by rock cormorants and a small colony of Magellanic penguins.
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Seeing penguins and their natural habitat is something special. These
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aren't the emperor penguins of Antarctica, but smaller banded penguins
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that nest in burrows along the coast. They waddled around
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with that distinctive penguin gait, occasionally diving into the channel
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with surprising grace, only to pop up moments later with
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a fish. But what you really want to do is
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Tierra del Fuego National Park, and we'll talk about that
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after the break. If there's one excursion you must make them,
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it's to Tierra del Fuego National Park, just twelve kilometers
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west of the city. This park marks the very end
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of the Pan American Highway, which stretches all the way
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from Alaska. Think about that for a second. You could
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theoretically drive from the Arctic Circle to this spot, with
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a few boat transfers along the way. I spent a
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full day exploring the park, and honestly, I could have
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easily spent three or four, covering over sixty three thousand hectares.
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It's a pristine wilderness of southern beach forest, peat bogs, mountains,
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and coastline along the Beagle Channel. The journey to the
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park itself is part of the experience. You can take
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a bus from USHWAYA, but I opted for the more
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romantic transportation option. The Southern Fugian Railway, better known as
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the End of the World Train. This narrow gauge railway
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was originally built by prisoners from the Penal Colony to
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bring timber from the forest for construction and heating. Now
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restored as a tourist attraction, the steam train chugs through
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the Pico Valley, following the Peepo River into the national Park.
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The train cars are beautifully maintained in a vintage style,
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with wood paneling and large windows that provide panoramic views
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of the landscape. As we steamed through the valley, our
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guide stories of the prisoners who'd built the original line,
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working in harsh conditions through brutal winters. It was a
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powerful reminder that even the most beautiful places often have complicated,
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sometimes dark histories. After disembarking at the park station, I
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began exploring on foot. The park has several well marked
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trails of varying difficulty. I started with the Coastal Path
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sen A Coostera, which runs for about eight kilometers along
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the shore of the Beagle Channel from Ensenada Bay to
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Lapataia Bay. Walking this trail, you're treated to constantly changing
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views of the channel with the Chilean islands and mountains
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visible across the water. The path weaves through southern beach
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forests that were just coming into full leaf during my
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December visit. These trees, known locally as Lenga and Nier,
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are perfectly adapted to the harsh Patagonian climate. They're not
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tall like our redwoods in California, but they have a weathered,
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wind sculpted beauty that speaks to their resilience. The forest
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floor was a ride of colour, tiny wildflowers and purple,
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yellow and white, creating a carpet among the moss and
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fallen leaves. I'm no botanist, but I reckon Chilean fire
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bush with its vibrant red tubular flowers and the delicate
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white stars of Patagonian starflower. About halfway along the coastal trail,
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I came across a beaver dam. Beavers, it turns out,
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are an ecological disaster in Tierra del Fuego. They were
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introduced from North America in the nineteen forties as part
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of a fur farming scheme that went terribly wrong. With
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no natural predators, they've multiplied and transformed the landscape, damming rivers,
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flooding forests, and causing extensive damage to the native ecosystem.
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Despite the ecological implications, there's something fascinating about seeing these
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industrious animals handiwork in such an unexpected setting. The dam
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had created a serene pond where the afternoon light reflected
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the surrounding mountains in a perfect mirror image. Continuing on,
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the trail climbs gently to offer sweeping vistas before descending
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to Lapataia Bay, where the Pan American Highway officially ends.
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There's a simple sign marking the spot Fin de la Ruta,
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the end of route three, which begins in Buenos Aires,
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three thousand and seventy nine kilometers away. Pilgrimage side of
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sorts for road trippers and adventure travelers, and there was
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a small celebratory atmosphere as people took photos by the sign.
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Lapataia Bay itself is breath taking, a protected inlet where
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the mountains seemed to rise directly from the calm waters.
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Seabirds wheeled overhead, and the air carried that distinctive mix
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of salt and forest that you only get in places
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where mountains meet the sea. From Lapateaella, I took another
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trail that led to a series of elevated boardwalks over
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peat bogs. These bogs, known locally as terbilays, are ancient
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carbon sinks that have been accumulating organic matter for thousands
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of years. Walking above them on the wooden walkways, I
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could see these spongy mosses that make up their surface
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in shades of green, red, and gold. The diversity of
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landscapes within the park is remarkable. In a single day's hiking,
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I passed through dense forests, walked along rocky beaches, crossed
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rushing streams, traverse spongy peat bogs, and climbed to windswept viewpoints.
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Each environment had its own character and ecosystem, yet they
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flowed into each other in a natural continuum. One thing
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I haven't talked about enough on this podcast is how
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the quality of light changes from place to place. In
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Tierra del Fuego, the light is something special, clear, sharp,
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and constantly changing as clouds race across the sky. Because
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of its extreme southern latitude about fifty five degrees south,
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USHWAYA and the surrounding areas experience very long days in summer.
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During my December visit, sunrise was around four thirty am
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and sunset wasn't until after ten pm, with a long
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golden twilight that lingered until almost midnight. This extended golden
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hour as a photographer's dream. The low angle of the
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sun means that even midday light has a warm, directional
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quality that brings out the texture in the landscape. Mountains
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that might look flat and uninteresting and harsh overhead light
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become three dimensional masterpieces of shadow and high light. In
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the National Park, I found myself constantly stopping to watch
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how a passing cloud would transform a forest glade, or
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how the late afternoon sun would turn the waters of
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the Beagle Channel into hammered gold. It's the kind of
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place where even a mediocre photographer like me can take
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stunning photos simply because the light does all the work.
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Despite being so far south, USHWAYA and Tierra del Fuego
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don't experience the extreme cold you might expect. The maritime
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influence moderates the temperature, creating what's known as a sub
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polar oceanic climate. Summer days typically reach the mid fifties
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to low sixties fahrenheit, while winter temperatures hover around freezing.
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What makes the weather challenging isn't the temperature so much
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as its unpredictability. The local saying goes, if you don't
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like the weather in Tierra del Fuego, wait five minutes.
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During my hike in the National Park, I experienced sunshine,
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a brief shower, windy conditions, and then sunshine again, all
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within a couple of hours. This meteorological chaos is due
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to the park's position at the meeting point of several
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