March 30, 2025

161. Belfast & Northern Ireland

TRIP IDEAS: Best one is the Black Cab Tour to Belfast! Link to all: https://vi.me/3ULrc

Head with Johnny Mac into Northern Ireland, where spectacular beauty coexists with complex history. Explore Belfast's transformation from industrial...

Show Notes
Transcript

TRIP IDEAS: Best one is the Black Cab Tour to Belfast! Link to all: vi.me/3ULrc

Head with Johnny Mac into Northern Ireland, where spectacular beauty coexists with complex history. Explore Belfast's transformation from industrial shipbuilding powerhouse to vibrant cultural hub while thoughtfully engaging with the city's divided past. Marvel at the hexagonal basalt columns of Giant's Causeway and discover how fantasy became reality at Game of Thrones filming locations throughout the region.

Unlock an ad-free podcast experience with Caloroga Shark Media! Get all our shows on any player you love, hassle free! For Apple users, hit the banner on your Apple podcasts app. For Spotify or other players, visit caloroga.com/plus. No plug-ins needed! You also get 20+ other shows on the network ad-free!

WEBVTT

1
00:00:03.120 --> 00:00:14.160
Callaroga Shark Media.

2
00:00:16.039 --> 00:00:18.440
Hey there, I'm Johnny Mack. Welcome to travels Back. Today,

3
00:00:18.480 --> 00:00:21.280
we're crossing the invisible but palpable line that separates the

4
00:00:21.320 --> 00:00:24.079
Republic of Ireland from Northern Ireland, a border that represents

5
00:00:24.120 --> 00:00:28.480
one of Europe's most complex and nuanced political situations. We'll

6
00:00:28.480 --> 00:00:31.399
explore Belfast, a city reinventing itself while still reckoning with

7
00:00:31.440 --> 00:00:33.880
its troubled past and the stunning natural landscapes that have

8
00:00:33.920 --> 00:00:39.079
drawn filmmakers from around the world. Northern Ireland defies simple narratives.

9
00:00:39.479 --> 00:00:42.640
It's a place where spectacular beauty coexists with painful history,

10
00:00:42.679 --> 00:00:45.159
where ancient myths meet modern realities, and where the question

11
00:00:45.200 --> 00:00:48.439
of identity remains deeply personal and sometimes contentious. So let's

12
00:00:48.439 --> 00:00:51.960
approach this journey with respect, curiosity, and an open mind.

13
00:00:52.479 --> 00:00:54.840
Belfast sits at the mouth of the River Lagan, a

14
00:00:54.880 --> 00:00:57.119
city that grew from a small settlement to a global

15
00:00:57.119 --> 00:01:02.439
shipbuilding powerhouse during the Industrial Revolution. Its skyline is still

16
00:01:02.479 --> 00:01:05.079
dominated by the massive yellow gantry cranes of Harland and

17
00:01:05.120 --> 00:01:09.439
Wolf's Shipyard, affectionately nicknamed Samson and Goliath by locals, where

18
00:01:09.480 --> 00:01:14.000
the Titanic was built over a century ago. The Titanic

19
00:01:14.000 --> 00:01:16.680
Belfast Museum stands on the site of the former shipyard,

20
00:01:16.719 --> 00:01:20.959
its angular metallic design resembling ship halls and ice crystals inside,

21
00:01:20.959 --> 00:01:23.200
it tells not just the story of the doomed liner,

22
00:01:23.359 --> 00:01:26.840
but of Belfast itself, a city whose fortunes rose and

23
00:01:26.879 --> 00:01:31.200
fell with the shipbuilding industry. The museum doesn't shy away

24
00:01:31.239 --> 00:01:34.400
from addressing both the engineering achievement the ship represented and

25
00:01:34.439 --> 00:01:38.000
the human failures that led to tragedy. Downtown Belfast has

26
00:01:38.079 --> 00:01:41.959
undergone remarkable transformation in recent decades. The Cathedral Quarter pulses

27
00:01:42.000 --> 00:01:44.920
with energy, its cobblestone streets lined with pubs, restaurants, and

28
00:01:44.959 --> 00:01:48.719
street art. The Victorian era Crown Liquor Saloon on Great

29
00:01:48.760 --> 00:01:52.439
Victoria Street remains virtually unchanged since the eighteen eighties, with

30
00:01:52.519 --> 00:01:56.799
its ornate mahogany booths, stained glass and gas lighting. A

31
00:01:56.799 --> 00:01:59.239
living museum where you can enjoy a perfect pint. Saint

32
00:01:59.280 --> 00:02:02.879
George's Market, Belfast's last surviving Victorian covered market, operates Friday

33
00:02:02.879 --> 00:02:05.640
through Sunday, filling with local vendors selling everything from fresh

34
00:02:05.640 --> 00:02:09.800
seafood to antiques. The Saturday market particularly comes alive with

35
00:02:09.879 --> 00:02:13.719
food stalls representing Belfast's increasingly diverse population, a far cry

36
00:02:13.759 --> 00:02:17.960
from the city's historically divided identity. The imposing City Hall,

37
00:02:18.000 --> 00:02:19.800
built in nineteen oh six at the height of belfast

38
00:02:19.800 --> 00:02:22.719
industrial wealth, offers free guided tours that provide insight into

39
00:02:22.719 --> 00:02:25.560
the city's political history. Its grounds now host events celebrating

40
00:02:25.560 --> 00:02:29.400
the multiculturalism that's increasingly defining modern Belfast. But to understand

41
00:02:29.439 --> 00:02:32.919
Belfast fully you need to confront its divided past. The

42
00:02:32.960 --> 00:02:36.759
peace walls barriers separating predominantly Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods still

43
00:02:36.800 --> 00:02:39.360
stand in parts of the city, covered now with murals

44
00:02:39.360 --> 00:02:43.080
and messages of peace. Black Cab tours offer educational journeys

45
00:02:43.120 --> 00:02:45.400
through these areas, though it's important to choose operators who

46
00:02:45.439 --> 00:02:49.479
present balanced perspectives. The murals themselves have evolved from territorial

47
00:02:49.479 --> 00:02:52.680
markings and intimidating paramilitaries to more hopeful images, though many

48
00:02:52.719 --> 00:02:56.719
of the original political murals remain as historical documents. On

49
00:02:56.759 --> 00:02:59.520
the Falls Road, Republican murals connect the Irish struggle to

50
00:02:59.560 --> 00:03:02.840
global mod movements like the Spanish Civil War and Palestinian Resistance,

51
00:03:03.240 --> 00:03:07.120
while Shankel Roads loyalist murals emphasize connections to Britain and

52
00:03:07.199 --> 00:03:12.039
commemorate paramilitary fighters. What's most striking about contemporary Belfast is

53
00:03:12.039 --> 00:03:15.360
the coexistence of this difficult history with the vibrant present.

54
00:03:15.759 --> 00:03:17.919
In the same day, you can visit sites associated with

55
00:03:17.960 --> 00:03:21.039
the troubles and then enjoy world class dining at restaurants

56
00:03:21.080 --> 00:03:25.120
like Ox or Deans, which showcase Northern Ireland's excellent local produce.

57
00:03:25.159 --> 00:03:28.120
This juxtaposition isn't contradiction, it's the reality of a city

58
00:03:28.159 --> 00:03:32.360
moving forward while acknowledging its past. Driving north from Belfast

59
00:03:32.360 --> 00:03:35.319
along the Causeway coastal Route, you'll reach what's arguably Northern

60
00:03:35.360 --> 00:03:40.159
Ireland's most famous natural wonder, the Giant's Causeway. These forty

61
00:03:40.159 --> 00:03:43.159
thousand interlocking basalt columns descend like a pathway into the sea,

62
00:03:43.240 --> 00:03:45.960
the result of an ancient volcanic eruption about sixty million

63
00:03:46.039 --> 00:03:49.039
years ago. Science tells us these hexagonal columns formed as

64
00:03:49.120 --> 00:03:54.039
volcanic basal cooled and contracted, creating perfectly geometric cracks, but

65
00:03:54.080 --> 00:03:57.599
Irish mythology offers a more colorful explanation. The causeway was

66
00:03:57.599 --> 00:03:59.840
built by the giant Finn McCool as a pathway to

67
00:03:59.879 --> 00:04:03.240
s Scotland to fight his rival Ben and Donner. When

68
00:04:03.280 --> 00:04:05.479
Finn realized Ben and Donna was much larger than him.

69
00:04:05.520 --> 00:04:08.960
His quick thinking wife disguised him as a baby. Seeing

70
00:04:09.039 --> 00:04:11.000
the size of what he thought was Finn's infant son,

71
00:04:11.080 --> 00:04:14.280
Ben and Donner fled back to Scotland in terror, destroying

72
00:04:14.280 --> 00:04:16.800
the causeway behind him to prevent Finn from following. The

73
00:04:16.839 --> 00:04:19.560
remaining stones are supposedly what's left of this Giant's pathway.

74
00:04:19.560 --> 00:04:23.160
The Giant's Causeway became Northern Ireland's first UNESCO World Heritage

75
00:04:23.319 --> 00:04:26.920
Site in nineteen eighty six, recognized for its geological importance,

76
00:04:26.920 --> 00:04:29.000
but it's also a place that embodies the connection between

77
00:04:29.079 --> 00:04:33.040
natural phenomena and human storytelling, how we've always created narratives

78
00:04:33.199 --> 00:04:36.199
to explain the world around us. The site can get crowded,

79
00:04:36.319 --> 00:04:39.040
especially during the summer months. Arriving early morning or late

80
00:04:39.079 --> 00:04:42.399
afternoon provides a more contemplative experience when the low sunlight

81
00:04:42.480 --> 00:04:46.360
casts dramatic shadows across the geometric stones. The less visited

82
00:04:46.399 --> 00:04:48.959
middle and upper trails along the cliff tops offer spectacular

83
00:04:49.079 --> 00:04:51.519
views of the coastline and a different perspective on the

84
00:04:51.519 --> 00:04:55.000
causeway below. Just a few miles away, bush Mill's Distillery

85
00:04:55.040 --> 00:04:58.000
offers another type of Irish heritage. It's the oldest licensed

86
00:04:58.000 --> 00:05:00.959
whisky distillery in the world, producing spirits in sixteen oh eight.

87
00:05:01.319 --> 00:05:04.160
The tour provides insight into traditional whiskey making methods and

88
00:05:04.199 --> 00:05:07.000
concludes with a tasting that highlights the distinctive character of

89
00:05:07.000 --> 00:05:11.319
Irish whisky compared to its Scottish counterpart. Northern Ireland's landscapes

90
00:05:11.360 --> 00:05:14.720
have found global fame through HBO's Game of Thrones, which

91
00:05:14.759 --> 00:05:18.399
filmed extensively throughout the region. For better or worse. This

92
00:05:18.439 --> 00:05:21.839
has transformed tourism here, with numerous tours catering specifically to

93
00:05:21.839 --> 00:05:24.199
fans of the show. The dark hedges and avenue of

94
00:05:24.240 --> 00:05:27.160
intertwined beach trees, planted in the eighteenth century, featured as

95
00:05:27.160 --> 00:05:29.600
the King's Road in the series. Originally planted by the

96
00:05:29.600 --> 00:05:32.879
Stuart family to impress visitors approaching their Georgian mansion, these

97
00:05:32.920 --> 00:05:35.839
trees have created a natural tunnel that's now one of

98
00:05:35.879 --> 00:05:39.279
the most photographed locations in Northern Ireland. The site has

99
00:05:39.279 --> 00:05:41.839
become so popular that vehicles are now banned from driving

100
00:05:41.839 --> 00:05:44.920
through to protect the aging trees. Balentoy Harbor, a small

101
00:05:44.959 --> 00:05:47.360
fishing harbor on the North Antrim coast, served as the

102
00:05:47.399 --> 00:05:50.639
Iron Islands in the show. Unlike the dark hedges, Balentoi

103
00:05:50.759 --> 00:05:54.680
remains relatively unchanged and retains its authentic working harbor atmosphere.

104
00:05:55.480 --> 00:05:58.199
The nearby Carrica Reid Rope Bridge, though not featured in

105
00:05:58.240 --> 00:06:01.160
the series, offers a thrilling cross to a tiny island

106
00:06:01.240 --> 00:06:05.399
used historically by Sam and Fisherman. Cushenden Caves, formed over

107
00:06:05.439 --> 00:06:07.879
four hundred million years, appeared in a memorable dark scene

108
00:06:07.920 --> 00:06:12.199
involving Melissandry. These natural caves are easily accessible from the

109
00:06:12.279 --> 00:06:14.879
charming village of Kushendun, designed in the style of a

110
00:06:14.959 --> 00:06:17.920
Cornish village by architect Cluff williams Ellis. In nineteen twelve,

111
00:06:19.160 --> 00:06:22.160
castle Warden County down doubled as Winterfell, with its courtyard

112
00:06:22.199 --> 00:06:24.680
serving as the filming location for the Stark family home.

113
00:06:26.079 --> 00:06:28.879
The eighteenth century mansion is unusual for having both Gothic

114
00:06:28.920 --> 00:06:33.399
and Classical architectural styles on opposite facades, representing the differing

115
00:06:33.480 --> 00:06:36.199
tastes of its original owners, Lord Bangor and his wife.

116
00:06:37.680 --> 00:06:40.759
What's fascinating about these locations is how a fantasy television

117
00:06:40.800 --> 00:06:43.279
show has created a new layer of cultural significance over

118
00:06:43.319 --> 00:06:47.079
places that already had rich histories and natural importance. This

119
00:06:47.120 --> 00:06:50.759
phenomenon raises interesting questions about how media influences our perception

120
00:06:50.839 --> 00:06:55.319
of places and creates new forms of cultural tourism. Local

121
00:06:55.319 --> 00:06:58.519
communities have adapted to this tourism boom with entrepreneurial spirit,

122
00:06:58.839 --> 00:07:01.600
offering everything from Game of Thrones themed afternoon teas to

123
00:07:01.759 --> 00:07:05.519
archery experiences and authentic filming locations. Yet there's some concern

124
00:07:05.560 --> 00:07:08.319
about preserving the authentic character of these places as visitor

125
00:07:08.360 --> 00:07:30.240
numbers continue to grow more. Coming up to travel responsibly

126
00:07:30.319 --> 00:07:34.120
in Northern Ireland means engaging with its complex history thoughtfully.

127
00:07:34.160 --> 00:07:37.120
The period known as the Troubles roughly from the late

128
00:07:37.199 --> 00:07:39.920
nineteen sixties to the nineteen ninety eight Good Friday Agreement,

129
00:07:39.959 --> 00:07:42.319
saw over thirty five hundred people killed in a conflict

130
00:07:42.319 --> 00:07:46.519
with deep historical roots. This wasn't simply a religious conflict

131
00:07:46.519 --> 00:07:49.519
between Catholics and Protestants, though religious identity often served as

132
00:07:49.519 --> 00:07:51.759
a marker for deeper political divisions. At its core, where

133
00:07:51.800 --> 00:07:55.160
questions of national identity, civil rights, and sovereignty, whether Northern

134
00:07:55.199 --> 00:07:57.319
Ireland should remain part of the United Kingdom or join

135
00:07:57.319 --> 00:08:01.360
a United Ireland. Belfast's peace walls, some reaching twenty five

136
00:08:01.439 --> 00:08:04.319
feet high, were constructed as temporary measures to reduce violence

137
00:08:04.360 --> 00:08:07.279
between neighborhoods, but have become semi permanent features of the

138
00:08:07.279 --> 00:08:09.120
city scape. There are still nearly one hundred of these

139
00:08:09.120 --> 00:08:12.160
barriers across Northern Ireland, though there are ongoing discussions about

140
00:08:12.160 --> 00:08:16.160
their gradual removal. The political situation has stabilized significantly since

141
00:08:16.160 --> 00:08:18.560
the Good Friday Agreement of nineteen ninety eight, which established

142
00:08:18.560 --> 00:08:22.160
a power sharing government and complex constitutional arrangements designed to

143
00:08:22.160 --> 00:08:25.240
protect the rights and identities of all communities. Yet Brexit

144
00:08:25.279 --> 00:08:28.120
has created new uncertainties about the border between Northern Ireland

145
00:08:28.160 --> 00:08:31.680
and the Republic. What's remarkable is how community based tourism

146
00:08:31.720 --> 00:08:35.519
initiatives have emerged from former conflict zones in Belfast. Former

147
00:08:35.559 --> 00:08:39.120
political prisoners from both Loyalist and Republican backgrounds now work

148
00:08:39.159 --> 00:08:42.559
as tour guides, sharing their personal experiences and perspectives on

149
00:08:42.600 --> 00:08:45.840
the conflict. These tours offer nuanced insights that go beyond

150
00:08:45.840 --> 00:08:48.279
simple narratives of two sides fighting each other. The peace

151
00:08:48.320 --> 00:08:51.600
process has allowed Northern Ireland's other histories and identities to

152
00:08:51.720 --> 00:08:55.440
emerge from the shadow of the troubles. Ulster Scott's heritage

153
00:08:55.519 --> 00:08:59.320
connections to the Ulster diaspora in America, industrial history maritime

154
00:08:59.360 --> 00:09:02.840
traditions and literary contributions are all receiving renewed attention. Northern

155
00:09:02.879 --> 00:09:07.200
Ireland contains multitudes stunning natural landscapes, a complex of political history,

156
00:09:07.320 --> 00:09:11.600
vibrant cities reinventing themselves, and rural traditions that stretch back generations.

157
00:09:12.080 --> 00:09:14.200
It's a place that rewards travelers who come with open

158
00:09:14.240 --> 00:09:16.919
minds and a willingness to look beyond simplistic narratives. As

159
00:09:16.960 --> 00:09:19.919
we've explored throughout our Ireland series, from the Wild Atlantic

160
00:09:19.919 --> 00:09:22.360
Way to the historic castles, and now to Belfast and

161
00:09:22.399 --> 00:09:26.120
the North, this island contains layers of history, culture, and

162
00:09:26.240 --> 00:09:30.000
natural beauty that can't be reduced to shamrocks. The Ireland

163
00:09:30.039 --> 00:09:33.879
of postcards exists. Certainly, the green fields, dramatic cliffs and

164
00:09:33.919 --> 00:09:36.799
welcoming pubs are real, but so too is an ireland

165
00:09:36.840 --> 00:09:40.559
of complexity, contradiction and continual reinvention. It's in engaging with

166
00:09:40.600 --> 00:09:43.799
both that the true reward of traveling here emerges. This

167
00:09:43.840 --> 00:09:46.960
concludes our series on Ireland, but the journey of exploration

168
00:09:47.039 --> 00:09:49.360
never really ends, whether you're planning your first trip to

169
00:09:49.360 --> 00:09:52.120
the Emerald Isle or returning to discover more layers of

170
00:09:52.159 --> 00:09:55.000
this fascinating place. I hope these episodes have provided some

171
00:09:55.159 --> 00:09:58.639
useful insights until our next destination. This is Johnny Mack

172
00:09:58.679 --> 00:10:01.320
reminding you that the most meaningful travel often happens when

173
00:10:01.320 --> 00:10:03.360
we move beyond the obvious and seek to understand the

174
00:10:03.360 --> 00:10:06.080
places we visit in all their complicated glory. Safe travels,

161. Belfast & Northern Ireland

Listen On

Featured Episodes

Recent Episodes