Nov. 30, 2025
183. Venice California - Canals, Creativity, and Abbot Kinney (Los Angeles)
Discover the Venice that most tourists miss – the actual canals that Abbot Kinney built in 1905, hidden just blocks from the boardwalk's chaos. Johnny Mac explores these unexpected European waterways before heading to Abbot Kinney Boulevard, where trendy boutiques, vegan restaurants, and coffee culture define modern Venice. From the quiet reflection of morning on the canals to the curated commerce of the boulevard to the carnival atmosphere of the beach, Venice compresses California's contradictions into a few walkable square miles. It's expensive, chaotic, beautiful, and troubled – quintessentially LA.
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Caloroga Shark Media.
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There are beach towns that exist purely for tourists, and
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there are beach towns where actual people live, actual lives.
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Then there's Venice, California, which somehow manages to be both
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simultaneously while also being neither. A place so strange, so contradictory,
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so determinedly weird that it defies easy categorization. It's where
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tech money meets street artists, where multimillion dollar homes sit
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blocks from tent encampments, where a developer's fever dream from
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nineteen oh five created actual canals in southern California that
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somehow still exist more than a century later. Venice was
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always supposed to be something it wasn't. Abbot Kinney, a
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tobacco millionaire with grand ambitions, envisioned an American Venice, complete
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with canals, gondolas, and cultural attractions that would bring European
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sophistication to the California coast. He built it, and people came,
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but not quite in the way he imagined. The amusement
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peer attracted crowds, but the highbrow cultural aspirations never quite
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took hold. The canals silted up and fell into disrepair.
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Oil was discovered and Derek sprouted. Where Kenney had dreamed
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of Renaissance revival would emerge instead with something uniquely Californian.
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A beach community that became a haven for beats and hippies,
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bodybuilders and skateboarders, street performers and artists, tech workers and tourists,
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all co existing in a compact area where the Pacific
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Ocean meets urban Los Angeles. Venice refuses to be just
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one thing, and that refusal has become its defining characteristic.
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The Venice Canals still exist, tucked away in a quiet
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residential neighborhood, just blocks from the boardwalk's chaos. Most visitors
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to Venice never find them, which is part of their appeal.
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You have to know they're there, have to deliberately seek
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them out, have to walk away from the beach and
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the shops and the street performers to discover this pocket
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of unexpected European charm in the middle of La The
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canals occupy a few square blocks between Venice Boulevard and
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Washington Boulevard, east of Pacific Avenue. Six remaining canals, Carol,
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Lenny halland Sherman Eastern and Grand form a grid with
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small bridges connecting the walkways. Houses line both sides, ranging
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from modest bungalows that have been here for decades to
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contemporary architectural statements built by people with significant money to spend.
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Walking the canal paths feels like stumbling into a different
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city entirely. The water reflects the sky in the houses,
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creating a sense of tranquility that seems impossible this close
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to the beach boardwalk's carnival atmosphere. Ducts paddle between lily pads.
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People sit on their small docks, reading or just watching
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the water. The walkways are narrow, designed for foot traffic
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rather than cars, creating an intimacy of scale that's rare
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in La. The bridges are small enough that you can
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stand on them and touch both railings simultaneously. Some are
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original concrete structures showing their age. Others have been rebuilt
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but maintain the scale and spirit of the originals. Crossing
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from one side of a canal to the other takes
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maybe ten steps, but those steps transport you from one
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property to another, one esthetic to another, one economic reality
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to another. The architectural diversity tells the story of Venice's evolution.
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Original craftsmen bungalows the Kinneys Company built in the nineteen
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tens and nineteen twenties still stand, their wood siding weathered,
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their front porches, suggesting a slower era. Mid Century modern
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additions from the nineteen fifties and sixties show clean lines
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and plate glass windows. And then there are the contemporary insertions,
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glass and steel constructions that make no attempt to blend
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with their neighbors, bold statements about wealth and taste that
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announce their newness without apology. This architectural collision could feel chaotic,
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but somehow it works. Maybe it's because the canals themselves
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provide continuity. The water doesn't care what style of house
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sits on its banks. Maybe it's because Venice has always
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been about juxtaposition, about different things existing side by side
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without requiring uniformity. Or maybe it's simply that the canals
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are beautiful enough that the houses become secondary to the
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water they surround. The canals are at their best in
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morning light, before the crowds arrive at the beach, when
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the only sounds are birds and the occasional paddle boards
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slicing through the water. This is when residents walk their dogs,
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When serious photographers capture the reflections when the neighborhood feels
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most likely quiet residential area technically is rather than the
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tourist attraction it's becoming. From the canals, It's a short
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walk to Abbitt Kinney Boulevard, and the transition is dramatic.
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The quiet residential calm of the canals gives way to
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one of LA's most aggressively trendy shopping and dining districts
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Abbot Kinney Boulevard, named for the same developer who built
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the canals, has become shorthand for a certain kind of
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contemporary California cool. Carefully curated boutiques, restaurants with inevitable wait times,
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coffee shops where laptops outnumber conversations, and the constant sense
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that everyone here is performing some version of Venice lifestyle
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for an invisible audience. The boulevard run from Venice Boulevard
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southeast toward the beach, about a mile of retail and
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restaurant density that represents Venice's transformation from bohemian enclave to
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destination for people with disposable income. This gentrification has been controversial,
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with longtime residents watching as rents increased, local businesses were
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replaced by chains masquerading as independence in the neighborhood's character
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shifted from scrappy to polished, but complaining about gentrification while
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walking abbot Kinney feels a bit like complaining about crowds
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while standing in one. The boulevard exists in its current
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form because people with money decided Venice was worth their attention,
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and those people created demand for the kinds of businesses
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that now line the street. Whether that's good or bad
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depends largely on whether you were here before or arrived after.
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The Shopping on abbot Kinney tends toward the boutique and
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the expensive. Clothing stores selling items that look simple but
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cost hundreds of dollars, home good shops offering candles and ceramics,
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and other objects that occupy the space between necessity and
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pure luxury. Art galleries showing work by local artists alongside
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more established names bookstores with carefully selected titles displayed spine
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out like art objects. The stores share a certain esthetic
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minimalist in design, selective in inventory, expensive in pricing. This
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is shopping as curation, where the act of choosing what
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to sell is as important as the selling itself. The
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staff in these shops tend to be young, attractive, and
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possessed of that particularly LA combination of friendliness and indifference.
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The restaurant seen on Abbot Kinni reflects broader LA food
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trends with perhaps more intensity than elsewhere. Plant based restaurants abound,
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catering to Venice's health conscious, environmentally aware clientele. The vegan
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restaurant serves food that's aggressively flavorful and satisfying, proving that
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plant based cuisine has evolved far beyond the bland, virtuous
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offerings that once define the category. The dishes are inventive
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without being gimmicky, using vegetables as primary ingredients rather than
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meat substitutes, and the result is food that works on
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its own terms, rather than as a compromise. Coffee shops
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multiply along Abbot Kinny, with the frequency of gas stations
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on a freeway. Each has its own angle. One focuses
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on single origin beans and precise brewing methods, and other
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emphasizes its sustainability credentials. A third cultivates a specific aesthetic
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that photographs well. The coffee is uniformly good, reflecting the
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high baseline that third wave coffee culture has established in La,
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But the real function of these shops is as workspaces
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and social spaces, where laptops open and remote workers claim
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tables for hours at a time. The street's energy peaks
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on weekends, when the sidewalks fill with a mix of
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locals and visitors, all participating in the performance of being
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in Venice. There's a self consciousness to it all that
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can feel exhausting. Everyone seems aware that they're in a
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place that has been deemed cool, and that awareness affects
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how they move through the space. But there's also genuine
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pleasure in walking a street where attention has been paid
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to design, where the retail offerings are interesting, even if unaffordable,
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where people watching provides constant entertainment. The street art and
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murals that appear on walls and alleys throughout Venice provide
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visual interest and historical continuity. Some are sanctioned pieces by
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known artists, Others are guerrilla installations that appear overnight. The
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subjects range from political commentary to purists athetics, from portraits
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of cultural figures to abstract explosions of color. This public
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art serves as a reminder that Venice was once and
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in some way still is a place where artists could
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afford to live and work. Parking on abbot Kinny is
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predictably terrible, which actually serves the street's pedestrian friendly character.
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People park in residential neighborhoods and walk in, or they
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arrive by bike, or they use ride sharing services that
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drop them at their destination. The lack of easy parking
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creates a self selecting audience. Those who make the effort
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to get here really want to be here, which maintains
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a certain energy level that easy access might dilute. The
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boulevard connects to the Beach Boardwalk at its western end,
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creating a natural progression from shopping to ocean, but the
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two areas feel distinctly different. Abbot Kinne is curated and
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relatively orderly, while the boardwalk embraces chaos and spectacle. The
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transition between them happens over just a few blocks, but
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it might as well be different cities. Venice Beach Boardwalk
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needs no introduction. It's been filmed, photographed, and written about
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enough that it exists as much in cultural imagination as
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physical reality. The muscle beach bodybuilders, the street performers. The
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vendors sell everything from sunglasses to cannabis, the skateboarders at
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the skate park, the basketball courts where serious games happen.
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All of it creates a carnival atmosphere that's simultaneously authentic
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and performance, organic and self conscious. The boardwalk is where
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Venice's contradictions become most visible. Wealthy homeowners live steps from
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street vendors. Tourists seek authenticity while creating the conditions that
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make authenticity impossible. The homeless population that lives here exists
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alongside visitors who've paid hundreds of dollars per night for
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beachfront hotels. The whole scene feels both exactly like you
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expect and completely surprising in its intensity. Venice works because
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it contains multitudes. The quiet canals and the chaotic boardwalk,
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the expensive boutiques and the street vendors, the tech workers
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and the artists, the longtime residents and the recent arrivals.
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All of these co exist in a compact area that
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refuses to resolve into coherent narrative. It's messy and contradictory
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and often uncomfortable, but those qualities make it more interesting
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than neighborhoods that have been smoothed into consistency. The challenge
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for Venice is maintaining any connection to its past. Gentrification
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accelerates the rents that allow boutiques to thrive on Abokinni
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also price out the artists and weirdos who gave Venice
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its character. The tourism that brings economic vitality also crowds
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out local life. The development that creates housing also changes
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the neighborhood's fundamental nature. These aren't problems with easy solutions,
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and Venice increasingly feels like a place in transition, caught
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between what it was and what it's becoming, with the
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outcome uncertain. But for now, Venice delivers an experience that's
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quintessentially la beautiful and troubled, expensive and accessible, carefully designed,
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and chaotically organic, all at the same time. From the
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unexpected European charm of the canals to the commercial energy
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of abbot Kinney to the circus of the boardwalk, Venice
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compresses California's contradictions into a few walkable square miles. It's
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not always comfortable, it's definitely not cheap, but it's never boring.
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I'm Johnny Mack and Travelers Back
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73
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74
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75
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76
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77
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78
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79
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80
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81
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82
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83
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84
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85
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86
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87
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88
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89
00:05:23.800 --> 00:05:26.639
90
00:05:26.680 --> 00:05:29.920
91
00:05:29.959 --> 00:05:32.879
92
00:05:33.000 --> 00:05:35.279
93
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94
00:05:37.639 --> 00:05:40.800
95
00:05:41.199 --> 00:05:43.680
96
00:05:43.720 --> 00:05:47.879
97
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98
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99
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100
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101
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102
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103
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104
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105
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106
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107
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108
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109
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110
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111
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112
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113
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114
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115
00:06:49.160 --> 00:06:52.800
116
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117
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118
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119
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120
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121
00:07:09.439 --> 00:07:12.600
122
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123
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124
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125
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126
00:07:23.839 --> 00:07:26.600
127
00:07:26.600 --> 00:07:30.279
128
00:07:30.319 --> 00:07:32.800
129
00:07:32.800 --> 00:07:35.240
130
00:07:35.279 --> 00:07:38.240
131
00:07:38.240 --> 00:07:40.879
132
00:07:40.879 --> 00:07:44.199
133
00:07:44.199 --> 00:07:48.199
134
00:07:48.279 --> 00:07:50.720
135
00:07:50.800 --> 00:07:54.360
136
00:07:54.360 --> 00:07:57.240
137
00:07:57.360 --> 00:08:01.000
138
00:08:01.000 --> 00:08:04.759
139
00:08:04.920 --> 00:08:07.079
140
00:08:07.120 --> 00:08:08.959
141
00:08:08.959 --> 00:08:11.680
142
00:08:11.720 --> 00:08:15.560
143
00:08:15.920 --> 00:08:18.240
144
00:08:18.279 --> 00:08:20.439
145
00:08:20.480 --> 00:08:23.279
146
00:08:23.279 --> 00:08:25.639
147
00:08:25.639 --> 00:08:27.439
148
00:08:27.480 --> 00:08:30.600
149
00:08:30.639 --> 00:08:33.320
150
00:08:33.360 --> 00:08:36.559
151
00:08:36.559 --> 00:08:39.759
152
00:08:39.799 --> 00:08:44.759
153
00:08:44.799 --> 00:08:47.039
154
00:08:47.080 --> 00:08:49.320
155
00:08:49.360 --> 00:08:53.360
156
00:08:53.480 --> 00:08:55.879
157
00:08:55.919 --> 00:08:59.440
158
00:08:59.519 --> 00:09:02.960
159
00:09:02.960 --> 00:09:05.919
160
00:09:06.320 --> 00:09:09.879
161
00:09:09.960 --> 00:09:13.679
162
00:09:13.759 --> 00:09:18.039
163
00:09:18.039 --> 00:09:21.840
164
00:09:21.879 --> 00:09:25.720
165
00:09:25.720 --> 00:09:28.120
166
00:09:28.200 --> 00:09:31.480
167
00:09:31.519 --> 00:09:34.559
168
00:09:34.559 --> 00:09:38.559
169
00:09:38.600 --> 00:09:41.240
170
00:09:41.240 --> 00:09:44.240
171
00:09:44.320 --> 00:09:46.399
172
00:09:46.480 --> 00:09:50.200
173
00:09:50.200 --> 00:09:53.399
174
00:09:53.399 --> 00:09:57.279
175
00:09:57.279 --> 00:10:00.559
176
00:10:00.639 --> 00:10:03.919
177
00:10:04.240 --> 00:10:06.399
178
00:10:06.440 --> 00:10:10.279
179
00:10:10.279 --> 00:10:14.120
180
00:10:14.120 --> 00:10:18.200
181
00:10:18.200 --> 00:10:21.080
182
00:10:21.080 --> 00:10:22.879
183
00:10:22.879 --> 00:10:27.200
184
00:10:27.240 --> 00:10:32.279
185
00:10:32.279 --> 00:10:35.480
186
00:10:35.559 --> 00:10:38.759
187
00:10:38.759 --> 00:10:41.559
188
00:10:41.559 --> 00:10:46.240
189
00:10:46.240 --> 00:10:49.240
190
00:10:49.720 --> 00:10:54.759
