Nov. 8, 2025
180. Solvang: Denmark in the California Sun
Welcome to one of California's most audacious experiments – a Danish village complete with windmills and half-timbered buildings, built in a valley where summer temperatures hit the nineties. Johnny Mac explores Solvang's pastries at packed Mortensen's Bakery, authentic sausages and German beer at Copenhagen Sausage Garden, year-round Christmas shopping, and live music at Solvang Park featuring Angie and the Nightmares. Discover why this theatrical town works despite (or because of) its absurdity, and why sometimes the best authenticity comes from complete commitment to an invented identity.
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Calaroga Shark Media. There are places in America that exist
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as pure fantasy towns that decided their actual history wasn't
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quite interesting enough, so they invented new identities and rebuilt
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themselves accordingly. Las Vegas became a neon oasis in the desert, Branson, Missouri,
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transformed into a country music theme park. And Sulvan, California,
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a small agricultural community in the Santa Meines Valley, reinvented
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itself as a Danish village, complete with windmills, half timbered buildings,
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and enough pastries to supply a small Scandinavian nation. The
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audacity of it is breathtaking. Here, in a valley where
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summer temperatures regularly hit the nineties, where the landscape looks
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nothing like Denmark, where the population has never been majority Danish,
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someone decided to build a tourist destination based on an
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esthetic borrowed wholesale from northern US Europe. It shouldn't work
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by all reasonable standards. It should feel forced, artificial, embarrassing,
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even and yet somehow Solvang pulls it off. Maybe it's
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because California has always been a place where people come
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to reinvent themselves. Where the past is negotiable and identity
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is performance. Maybe it's because the commitment to the bit
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is so complete, not just a few decorative touches, but
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an entire architectural overhaul that transformed downtown into something that
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could pass for a film set. Or maybe it's because
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underneath the Danish facades and tourists trapping, Solvang remains a
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functional small town where real people live real lives, preventing
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it from becoming a pure simulacrum. Walking through Solvang requires
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a certain suspension of disbelief. You have to accept that
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you're in a place that's simultaneously authentic and completely fabricated,
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historically rooted and utterly invented, genuinely charming, and unabashedly commercial.
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It's Disneyland without the admission fee, a theme park that
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doubles as an actual community, and on a warm California day,
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with pastries from war Hortinson's Bakery in hand and the
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sound of live music drifting from the park, the absurdity
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of it all becomes part of the appeal. Solvang was
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founded in nineteen eleven by a group of Danish American
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educators who purchased land in the Santa Ines Valley to
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establish a folk school. The original settlers were genuinely Danish,
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and the town's name, meaning sunny field in Danish, reflected
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their heritage. But for decades Solvang remained an unremarkable agricultural
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community that happened to have Danish roots, no different from
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countless other ethnic enclaves scattered across rural America. The transformation
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to tourist destination began in the nineteen forties and accelerated
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through the nineteen fifties and sixties. Business owners recognized that
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Solvang's Danish heritage could be leveraged into something commercially viable.
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Buildings were retrofitted with half timbered facades, gabled roofs, and
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decorative stork nests. Windmills were constructed not to mill grain,
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but to serve as visual anchors for the town's new identity.
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Bakeries began emphasizing traditional Danish pastries, and shops stocked within
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to Danish goods appeared along the main streets. By the
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nineteen sixties, Solvong had completed its metamorphosis. Articles in national
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magazines brought tourists from across the country, eager to experience
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a slice of Denmark without crossing the Atlantic. The town
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leaned into its new role with enthusiasm, hosting Danish Days festivals,
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maintaining relationships with Danish towns and organizations, and continuously refining
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its Nordic esthetic. The result is a town where almost
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every building in the downtown core has been styled to
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suggest Denmark, even when the structure itself is pure California
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wood frame construction, and the overall impression is one of
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Nordic tidiness and order imposed on the California landscape. Critics
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might dismiss Solvong as inauthentic, a Potempkin village built for
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tourist dollars, and they wouldn't be entirely wrong. But there's
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something admirably committed about the project, something that transcends simple commercialism.
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Solvong doesn't just slap a few Danish flags on buildings
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and call it a day. The transformation is comprehensive, detailed,
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and maintained with a level of care that suggests genuine
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pride rather than mere profit motive. The morning begins as
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it should in any Danish town, reel or imagined at
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a bakery Mortensen's Danish Bakery occupies a prominent corner location
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on mission drive, and even before you enter, the line
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extending out the door signals that this is the place
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serious pastry seekers come. Inside, the display cases present a
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dizzying array of Danish pastries, cookies, and breads. This isn't
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the limited selection you find at most American bakeries, where
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Danish means a single type of fruit filled pastry. This
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is the real deal Kringle, veener bread sneegel, and numerous
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variations that require actual knowledge to navigate. The bakery is packed,
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which in Solvang terms means genuinely crowded tourists mixed with
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locals who have clearly made this their morning ritual. The
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staff works with efficient choreography, taking orders, boxing pastries, operating
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the register, and somehow keeping track of who's next. Despite
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the crowd, there's no table service here. You order at
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the counter, pay and find somewhere else to consume your purchases.
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The pastries themselves justify the weight and the crowd. These
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aren't the sad, dry specimens you find at coffee shops,
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nor are they the overly sweet, mass produced versions that
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give Danish pastries a bad name. The dough has proper lamination,
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creating distinct, flaky layers that shatter satisfyingly with each bite.
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The fillings, whether fruit, custard or almond paste, are generous
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without being excessive, flavored boldly enough to taste through the
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butter rich dough. The commitment to authenticity extends to the
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less obvious items. The rye bread is actually rye, dense
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and dark, with the slightly sour tang that comes from
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proper fermentation. The cookies include traditional Danish varieties that haven't
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been Americanized into sweet oblivion. Even the coffee is strong
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and proper, not the watered down version that passes for
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coffee in much of America. Mortensen's proves that Solvan's Danish
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identity isn't purely superficial. The architecture might be stage dressing,
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but the pastries are legitimate. Someone here knows what they're doing,
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has likely spent time in actual Danish bakeries, and refuses
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to cut corners even when most tourists wouldn't know the difference.
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That commitment elevates the entire enterprise from kitsch to something
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more sobstantial. While Solvong emphasizes its Danish heritage, the food
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scene has expanded beyond pastries and open faced sandwiches. Paula's
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Pancake House represents the California side of Solvong's dual identity
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and American breakfast institution that happens to exist in a
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town dressed up like Denmark. The menu features American breakfast
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staples executed with care and generosity. Pancakes come in stacks
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that challenge the laws of structural engineering. Omelets arrive overflowing
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with fillings. The portions suggest a philosophy that hunger should
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be conquered decisively rather than merely addressed. The space itself
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has that comfortable, worn in quality of restaurants that have
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been feeding people for decades. Booths show signs of use,
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tabletops have the patina that comes from years of plates
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and coffee cups, and the overall atmosphere suggests a place
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more interested in food than decor. What makes Paula's work
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in Solvang is its unapologetic americanness. It provides counterbalance to
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the Danish theming, a reminder that underneath the Nordic facades,
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this is still California, still America, still a place where
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nor miss portions and straightforward food remain cultural touchstones. Visitors
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can eat ableskyver at one meal and pancakes the size
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of dinner plates at the next, experiencing both sides of
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Solvang's identity without cognitive dissonance. The restaurant also serves as
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a gathering place for locals, which gives it credibility that
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pure tourist destinations lack. The regulars who occupy the counterstools,
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reading newspapers over coffee refills create an atmosphere of genuine
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community rather than staged authenticity. Lunch brings the opportunity to
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experience Solvang's take on Danish pub food at the Copenhagen
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Sausage Garden. The name promises exactly what it delivers, sausages
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in a garden setting, with the addition of German beard
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around out the Northern European theme. The traditional sausage with
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cucumbers and a pretzel represents the sweet spot between authenticity
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and accessibility. The sausage itself is proper, well seasoned, with
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good texture and actual flavor beyond generic sausage taste. The
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cucumbers provide necessary acidity and crunch, cutting through the richness
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of the meat. The pretzel is substantial closer to German
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standards than the thin, hard versions that pass for pretzels
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in American baseball stadiums. But the real revelation is the
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beer selection. The Copenhagen Sausage Garden takes its beer seriously,
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offering an array of German and Belgian bruise that would
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be impressive in a dedicated beer bar let alone a
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tourist district restaurant. The list includes proper Pilsners, heffy Wizens,
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and darker Laggers that pair perfectly with sausage and pretzels.
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The garden setting elevates the experience beyond typical theme park
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food court dining. Actual trees provide shade, tables are space
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generously enough for conversation, and the outdoor atmosphere feels more
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like a genuine beer garden than a tourist attraction's outdoor
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seating area. On a mild California day, with a good sausage,
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a proper beer, and live music drifting from somewhere nearby,
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the Copenhagen Sausage Garden achieves what Solvang aims for at
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its best, an experience that's simultaneously artificial and genuinely pleasant,
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let's stop and have a beer or two, and we'll
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be right back. The Jewel Hoose or Christmas House embodies
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Solvang's commitment to themed retail. This isn't a shop that
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sells some Christmas items alongside other merchandise. This is year round,
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all Christmas, all the time retail, where it's always December inside,
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regardless of what month appears on the actual calendar. Walking
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into the Christmas House in July creates a disorienting but
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oddly appealing experience. Christmas music plays softly, trees stand fully
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decorated ornaments cover every available surface. The air conditioning fights
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heroically against California heat to maintain the illusion of winter.
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Merchandise ranges from traditional Scandinavian Christmas items wooden nutcrackers, tomptae figures,
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woven hearts, to more general Christmas kitsch. Some items are
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genuinely hand crafted, imported from Denmark or other Nordic countries.
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Others are mass produced in the same Chinese factories that
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supply every Christmas store in America. The mix of authentic
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and commercial mirrors Solvang itself. What makes the Christmas House
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work is its absolute commitment to the concept. There's no hedging,
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no seasonal merchandise rotation, no acknowledgment that Christmas might not
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be top of mind in August. The store operates in
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a perpetual December, and visitors either embrace the fantasy or
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they don't. Most seem to embrace it, judging by the
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steady stream of customers carrying bags of ornaments and holiday
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decorations back to their cars in ninety degree heat. The
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store also serves as a kind of cultural translation, introducing
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American visitors to Scandinavian Christmas traditions that differ from the
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American version of the holiday. The emphasis on handcrafted items,
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natural materials, and understated decoration contrasts with the more more
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is more esthetic that dominates American Christmas culture. The book
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Loft provides respite from Soulvong's more aggressively commercial enterprises. This
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independent bookstore occupies multiple levels in one of the downtown buildings,
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with staircases connecting rooms that feel more like someone's home
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library than a retail space. The selection skews toward what
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bookstores call general interest bestsellers, literary fiction, popular nonfiction, local
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interest titles, and a solid children's section, but the organization
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and curation suggest actual thought rather than algorithm driven stocking.
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Staff recommendations appear throughout handwritten notes that convey genuine enthusiasm
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rather than corporate marketing copy. The physical space invites browsing
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in ways that big box bookstores and online shopping cannot.
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The narrow staircases, the different levels, the reading nooks with
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actual chairs. All of these create an environment where spending
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an hour looking at books feels natural rather than purposeless.
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The Book Loft operates at a pace that contradicts contemporary
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rea detail, where efficiency and throughput dominate design decisions. In Solvong,
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where so much retail exists purely to serve tourists, passing through,
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the book Loft feels different. It's a bookstore that would
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need to exist even if Solvang weren't a tourist destination,
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serving a community of readers who actually live here that
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gives it an authenticity the compliments and contrast with the
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town's more theatrical elements. The Mole Hole occupies the gift
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shop end of Solvang's retail spectrum, but executed with enough
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style to avoid feeling generic. The store offers what could
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charitably be called decorative items and less charitably called stuff sculptures, candles, jewelry,
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kitchen accessories, garden decorations, and the countless categories of objects
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that people buy for themselves or as gifts. What distinguishes
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the mole Hole from typical tourist trap gift shops is
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the curation. The items lean toward the whimsical and artistic
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rather than purely kitchy. The jewelry cases feature actual craftsmanship,
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the home goods show design consideration. The prices reflect the quality.
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This isn't dollar store merchandise marked up for tourists. The
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store also manages to incorporate both Danish themed items and
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more general gift merchandise without the combination feeling incoherent. The
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Danish items provide local color and connection to Solvong's identity,
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while the broader selection prevents the store from becoming a
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one note novelty shop for visitors. The mole Hole solves
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the gift problem the tourist destinations create. What do you
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bring back for friends and family that isn't embarrassing? The answer,
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at least here is items that happen to come from Solvang,
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but don't scream souvenir with every glance the smell hits
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you before you reach the door. Chocolate pure and uncomplicated,
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carried on the air conditioning that flows from Svensguard's chocolates
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onto the street. It's olfactory advertising of the most effective kind,
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drawing people toward the shop like cartoon characters floating toward
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pie on a windowsill. Inside display cases present chocolates arranged
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with the precision of jewelry, truffles, caramels, bark clusters, and
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countless variations on the theme of cocoa, sugar and fat
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transformed into pleasure. The store makes many items on site,
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and you can often watch chocolatears working in the back,
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tempering chocolate or hand dipping candies. The decision to purchase
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the licorice polka grisar, traditional Swedish candy canes with a
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distinctive anis flavor, represents a choice toward the more adventurous
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end of the candy spectrum. Licorice divides people sharply, particularly
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the strong, salty Nordic varieties that differ dramatically from American
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licorice candy. The polka grisar deliver that authentic Scandinavian licorice experience, bold,
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slightly medicinal, not particularly sweet and absolutely polarizing. But that
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choice also represents engaging with Sulvan on its own terms,
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rather than demanding it conformed to American candy preferences. The
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store could stock only familiar chocolates and avoid alienating customers
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who don't appreciate Nordic licorice traditions. Instead, Spence Cards offers
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both familiar crowd pleasers alongside items that require more adventurous palettes.
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The chocolate itself, whether familiar or exotic varieties, maintains high standards.
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